The Slate Phuket: industrial chic luxury on Nai Yang Beach

At Phuket’s quieter northern end, The Slate blends Bill Bensley’s audacious tin-mine design with family-friendly resort ease, memorable dining and a rare sense of seclusion close to Nai Yang Beach.

Words: Roderick Eime || Images: supplied

It is tempting, when writing about resorts, to reach for the same polished vocabulary that appears in every brochure and online review. Sanctuary. Oasis. Hideaway. Retreat. Most of the time, those words are merely decorative. At The Slate Phuket, however, they come closer than usual to the truth.

The Retreat Koh Chang: Quiet Luxury on Thailand’s Green Island

Thailand’s islands are often associated with excess. Vast beachfront resorts, crowded pool decks and all-night beach parties have become part of the country’s tourism mythology. Yet tucked away on Koh Chang, near the Cambodian border, The Retreat Koh Chang offers something markedly more restrained and sophisticated.

Song Wat, Bangkok: Where the City’s Past Still Trades

I arrived in Bangkok expecting another extension of Chinatown’s sensory overload, but Song Wat Road reveals itself more gradually. Running parallel to the Chao Phraya River, this narrow strip feels like a working archive—less polished than other revived districts, but arguably more authentic.

History, food and fun at Asiatique The Riverfront, Bangkok

 Set along a broad curve of the Chao Phraya River, Asiatique The Riverfront is one of Bangkok’s most atmospheric leisure precincts—part night market, part dining district and part riverside promenade. It combines modern retail and entertainment with a deliberately preserved sense of the city’s maritime past. Since opening in 2012, the complex has become a popular evening destination for both visitors and locals seeking food, shopping and river views in a single location.

Flying High at the Royal Thai Air Force Museum

Visiting the Thai Air Force Museum is an immersive experience into the country's surprisingly rich aviation history.

 Located near Don Mueang International Airport in Bangkok, the museum showcases a vast collection of aircraft, memorabilia, and exhibits highlighting Thailand's military aviation heritage. Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by a sprawling complex featuring various aircraft on display, including retired military planes and helicopters.

‘No Boundaries’: The Reinvention of Siam@Siam

TAAN marks its long-awaited reopening with a new menu of its most celebrated dishes, a refreshed dining-room ambience and a bolstered service team.

The PRODE menu (whose name means ‘favourite’ in Thai) invites guests on a nine-course trip down memory lane while continuing to push the boundaries of modern Thai cuisine.

The best Indian Restaurant in Bangkok?

Roderick Eime likes it hot - his Indian food, that is. Find out why he went all the way to Bangkok for a curry.

A classy couple enjoying the rooftop view from Rang Mahal (supplied)

Tonight I’m dining at the best Indian restaurant in Bangkok. Okay, so that may sound a bit incongruous. Why come all the way to Bangkok for Indian cuisine? Because when it’s as good as this, it’s worth it.

Rang Mahal, I’m told, was the traditional palace of pleasure and banqueting. A venue specially decorated by Indian kings with intricate mirror work and the choicest paintings, the kings would come down to the Rang Mahal to wear off their royal worries and enjoy the best of Indian cuisines, wines and music. To this extent, the reproduction is accurate and a troupe of musicians play Indian folk music as we dine.

Located on the top (26th) floor of the popular Rembrandt Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 20, right in the heart of downtown Bangkok, head chef Rajan Misra concocts a staggering array of wonderfully authentic Indian dishes.

Head chef, Rajan Misra "I'm still learning"

His mantelpiece groans under the weight of awards which includes eleven consecutive years as Best Restaurant from Thailand Tatler, top spot in Bangkok’s Top Tables Guide and top Indian restaurant in Bangkok by wbpstars.com, which assesses the best restaurants in the world.

My companions tonight include some fussy, if irreverent Aussie journos, ex-pats and the ever convivial GM, Mr Eric Hallin, who hails from Sweden, albeit a long time ago. I remind myself to refrain from ABBA jokes.

Eric takes charge of the wine and regales us with stories of the burgeoning Thai wine industry. Hang on, double take. Thai wine industry? I recall a white wine from Isaan sampled some years back that I wouldn’t use to extol the virtues of the national grape.

“We’ve come leaps and bounds since then,” Eric says, “and interestingly, the star Thai winemaker at the moment is a young woman.”

True, Visootha "Nikki" Lohitnavy is responsible for the Granmonte Heritage Syrah (shiraz) from Khao Yai and it’s pretty good by any standards. Yes, I’ll have a top up.

"I would recommend any dry or semi-dry whites like Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, with chicken dish like Murgh Makhanwala and for seafood like Tandoori prawns," says Eric earnestly, "The reason why I don’t suggest Chardonnay grape is because its fruity characteristics dominate the flavour of the Indian food."

Then I almost stand when chef Misra comes to greet our table. He’s royalty around here.

One of our team cheekily inquires, “So what does it take to be a top chef?”

Treating the question seriously, chef replies: “ … consistency, continuous practice and learning. I have watched and learned from masters in India and adapted these techniques to my own dishes, so what you are hopefully enjoying tonight is a result of that and my own learning.”

I love it the way he says “hopefully”.

Signature dish Murgh Makhanwala with tofu (supplied)

Tandoori Prawns (supplied)

Most of the dishes are Northern Indian influenced with the freshest ingredients overseen by chef himself. Okay then, bring it on.

Eric signals to chef with some cryptic sign language and code words, but it’s a practiced routine and our order is on the table almost before the kitchen door stops swinging.

Deep-fried puff pastry samosas stuffed with potatoes and green peas are placed in ornate copper dishes along with Kabu Aloo Chaat (potatoes, chick peas tossed with Indian tangy sauces and herbs). You’d think this was McDonalds the way we hoe in. There is no consulting about the last one either. It’s gone.

Tandoori kebabs, chicken and prawns are arrayed before us like a royal feast. Tandoori is a Delhi charcoal oven tradition and it’s here that chef pays homage to the masters with age-old recipes livened with his own touch. Spicy sauces and soothing yoghurts work together to enhance this delicious assortment.

More wine.

It’s hard to say no to this cavalcade of fabulous food and I’m feeling decidedly full as I tackle the last morsels of Raan-e-Khyber, tender lamb leg, marinated in rum, herbs and spices and barbecued on charcoal.

Sensing our satisfaction, Eric summons dessert and ice cream and fresh fruit appear to calm our enthusiasm.

As I stumble back to my room, visions of maharajahs and maidens cavorting over their own feast, it’s easy to see how Rang Mahal garners such awards and, jokes aside, I heartily commend this restaurant and its learned chef.

Bookings are recommended. Want to see a menu? Here are some of chefs recipes.

Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, Sukhumvit Road, Klong Toei, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
www.rembrandtbkk.com

Doing Phuket Both Ways

While I have become a regular to Thailand, this was my first visit to the famously rambustious resort destination of Phuket. No, I'm not going to dwell on the kaleidoscope of entertainment options assaulting you as you navigate bustling Bangla Road - there are better sites for that information - but rather on choosing appropriate accommodation to suit the kind of relaxation you, your partner and/or family have in mind.

The raucous New Tiger nightclub is one of the 'colourful' venues
along bustling Bangla Road (source: phuket101.net)

To illustrate my point, I stayed two nights in two contrasting properties. One, a sprawling 665-room resort, the other, a secluded 16-villa private sanctuary. And, as you can imagine, there are plenty of options in between.

Apart from selecting the style of property you want to stay at, location is another prime consideration. Taxis around the island can be exorbitant by Thai standards, so you don't want to be taking them every day to get to your activities. If you want your action close to riotous Bangla Road, then there are several branded hotels within an easy stumble from the front line melee.

Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa – phuketarcadia.hilton.com

Set on a massive 75-acre plot, the 665-room Hilton is around 25 years old but has had numerous rooms upgraded as recently as 2011 in the Deluxe Plus category. Entry-level Deluxe are the same size without the recent decorative refurbishments, but are no less comfortable. Above that are the more spacious Junior Suites, but these are yet to undergo refurbishment. There are a dozen or so super-plush Hilton Suites, but I wasn't able to view these.

One of the seven buildings at that make up the
Hilton Arcadia Phuket (supplied)

The resort comprises seven distinct buildings and includes The Spa, children's club, tennis and squash courts (yes, remember them?), extensive business and conference facilities, a massive, scalable ballroom and a fitness centre. There's across-the-road access to upscale Karon Beach or you can swim in any of the three pools.

Refurbished Deluxe Plus room (supplied)

Access to nightlife and shopping in Patpong is via a 30-minute cab ride, not something you want to be doing too often. The resort also offer their own transfers, but these are not always available or practical.

While this type of resort is fine for families and groups, it might not appeal to honeymooners or those seeking peace and quiet. For this rejuvenating purpose, I would recommend something like:

The Bell Pool Villa Resort – thebellphuket.com

Self-contained pool villa at The Bell.
Like having your own resort. (supplied)

You can insulate yourself from as much of the outside as you want, making this almost a Howard Hughes experience.

These fabulous three-year-old villas are fully self-contained behind a high wall and gate with private (8x4m) infinity pool and cabana. Separate bedrooms, living area and kitchen means you can blissfully enjoy your own company (or that of loved ones) while you make your own meals or have them delivered from the kitchen. Need to get out a bit? Stroll down to Zhong, the in-house restaurant, or take the free shuttle to nearby Kamala Beach or downtown Patong.

Breakfast served in your private villa (supplied)

Perfect for couples, but expandable using the separate bedrooms, each villa can be configured to accommodate up to six persons, seven at a pinch.

There are just 16 villas, 14 standard and two 'Presidential', the latter being able to sleep 8 persons thanks to a fourth bedroom. Watch a movie on the big screen TV or use the nifty Apple TV device provided. There's a private (chargeable) wine 'cellar', free Wi-Fi and spa treatments at the exclusive in-house salon.

So, take your pick. Join in the throng or find your own private hideaway, the choice is yours.

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More information on Phuket and Thailand can be always be found at: www.thailand.net.au