Thailand's Most Romantic Hotels

Valentine’s Day is upon us ... when lovers’ thoughts turn to hearts and roses and chocolates and all that mushy nonsense. Thailand, of course, is an incredibly romantic destination, a favourite of honeymooners and those looking for ... well, a bit of action.

Here are my picks for five of Thailand’s most romantic places to stay:

The Siam Hotel, Bangkok:
I want my lover to spoil me, and because only the best will do, this is where I demand to stay whilst in Bangkok. Massive, stylish guest suites, with cloud-like beds, free-standing pod bathtubs, and the services of an attentive butler - more champagne, my friend! Exquisitely decorated with the personal antique collection of hotel owner and local celebrity Krissada Sukusol Clapp, this lovely hotel has a tranquil riverside location, well away from the chaos of the shopping precincts. www.thesiamhotel.com

Banyan Tree Koh Samui:
If you’re going to stay in a luxurious villa, with direct access off the bedroom to a private infinity pool overlooking the bay, you may as well have fun ... and use it in the manner for which it was intended. Nuff said. Enjoy your honeymoon! www.banyantree.com/samui

Anantara Rasanada Koh Phangan:
Oh my, what a view! Blinding white sand, turquoise water, coconut palms - tropical bliss. Drag yourself away from the king-size bed in your massive Ocean Garden Pool Suite - go on - and plonk down on the day bed next to your private plunge pool. Oh, and you might want to enjoy a glass of that complimentary booze while you’re at it. Truly a place blessed by nature, where the full moon brings out the romantic beast in us all .... http://phangan-rasananda.anantara.com/

Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort:
This is a different sort of romance ... misty views of the Mekong River and beyond to Laos and Burma, the distant trumpet of an elephant, and the tranquility of a jungle setting. This was the very first place I visited in Thailand, and it’s made an indelible impression on me. Insanely beautiful, culturally stimulating and undeniably romantic. http://goldentriangle.anantara.com/

Phutawan Raft House, Cheow Lan Lake, Khao Sok National Park
Who said you have to spend bucketloads of cash to have a romantic weekend? Here, it’s all about the simple life - a thatched roof over your head, a mattress to sleep on, waterfront views to die for, and the sweaty embrace of the your loved one. Step out in the morning straight into the lake, a pastel mirror as the sun rises over limestone karst peaks; then do nothing. Just sit and stare at that view. And listen to the gibbons, singing their own love song of freedom. Heaven. www.phutawanrafthouse.com

Koh Samet - Paradise Near Enough

Regular contributor John Borthwick escapes to little Koh Samed, the closest resort island to Bangkok.


At around 200 kilometres from Bangkok you might expect Koh Samed to be over-paved and full of ravers. On the contrary, this predominantly jungle-clad island still has clean, tranquil beaches and, during the week at least, a lowkey booze scene.

Koh Samed (aka Koh Samet) was once known as Vast Jewel Island, a safe anchorage for sailors. In the 19th century its beauty was the inspiration for Thailand's best-loved romantic poet, Sunthorn Phu, whose tale of a lovesick mermaid and an exiled prince is commemorated in the colourful statues of the two lovers on Hat Sai Kaew.

Statues at Hat Sai Kaew

Hat Sai Kaew (“glass sand beach”) on the northeast of the island is Samed’s longest and most popular shore, an 800-metre strand of fine white sands, restaurants and bungalow hotels. From here, beaches loop down the east coast like links in a silica chain that become increasingly pristine — and decreasingly busy — the farther south you go.

Wongduan Beach

Ao Cho beach

Among the island’s virtues are its woeful roads — their washboard ruts successfully repel invaders who otherwise would over-run the place in coaches, limos and tuk-tuks. To get around, visitors either ride in songthaew pick-up trucks or hire light motorcycles or quad bikes. Having explored Samed by land you might want a different perspective. Boat excursions include snorkelling, fishing or just cruising around the island. The marine life and coral here aren’t Andaman-class but there are plenty of intro dives, night dives and certification courses.

Although this narrow, 13-sq km island in the Gulf is part of a Maritime National Park, that hasn’t stopped Thai developers building tourist facilities along its best beachfronts — the controversial paradox of public land becoming privately “owned”. Accommodation ranges from ageing bungalows to new spa resorts, and plenty in between. Rates rise according to the season (mid-October to March being more expensive). Due to Samed’s proximity to Bangkok and Pattaya, weekend rooms are in demand, so make your reservations in advance.

Tip: book a package for your first few nights accommodation on Samed that includes transport from BKK/Pattaya to Ban Phe public wharf (not to Ban Phe town), the ferry hop to Na Dan (Samed’s only village) and transfer to your resort. You’ll cut out the transport hucksters, hassles and several long waits.

In general, there’s gloriously little of note to do on Samed but eat, drink, read and be lazy. Post-sunset, look out on a dark horizon that’s hung with the carnival lights of squid boats and consider that, although the term “island paradise” — anywhere — is just a marketing crock, sometimes Koh Samed can feel like Paradise Near Enough.

Fire dance at Khlong Chao. Pics: John Borthwick

Getting there: A three-hour drive from Bangkok (or one hour from Pattaya) to Ban Phe wharf in Rayong Province, then a seven-kilometre ferry to the island. National Park entrance fee (mandatory) is 400 baht for foreigners, 40 baht for Thais.

Boutique Hotels in Chiang Mai

If you’re looking for a stylish hotel in Chiang Mai, there’s no shortage of choice! I am often asked for recommendations - here are a few of my favourites:

Tamarind Village
Located in the heart of the walled city on Rachedamneon Rd (Walking Street), Tamarind is an enticing oasis and a refuge of tranquility. Accessed from the street via an avenue of bamboo, it is built around an ancient tamarind tree, with a cluster of low-rise white-washed buildings with clay-tiled roofs resembling a traditional Lanna village. An open-air reception area overlooks a shimmering pool where children splash and adults sprawl lazily on sun lounges or dine in the Ruen Tamarind Restaurant. Rooms are small but exquisite, with simple modern furnishings draped with rich, locally sourced textiles. The hotel also doubles as gallery space, with its corridors featuring works by local artists.
www.tamarindvillage.com

Anantara Chiang Mai Resort & Spa
The much-beloved Chedi hotel has recently become an Anantara, a company with a reputation for snaffling the best locations. And this property has it all - a lovely riverside setting, impeccable styling, and great accessibility to Chiang Mai’s vibrant cafe and nightlife scene. Its pool area is simply to die for; while its 84 rooms and suits all feature a river-facing balcony where guests can watch traditional fishing boats drift by. The 90-year-old colonial British consulate building now houses a restaurant service Indian and South-East Asian cuisine; and of course, it also serves high tea!
www.chiang-mai.anantara.com

Dusit D2
This hip, urbane hotel is located right in the heart of the action of the Night Bazaar just off Chang Klang Rd. Everything about this place just makes me smile, from its spacious, funky lobby with oversized vases filled with fruit to its welcome drinks in silly, wobble-bottomed glasses. Clean lines and simple, functional design maximises space in its small guest suites; and amusing touches like silk bed balls and a nightly gift box with goodies such as fortune cookies are a sweet touch. Even the staff here are cool suspenders and Converse, they are always helpful, smiley and prepared to go the extra mile for guests. Don’t miss their daily ‘change-of-shift’ ritual - a flash-mob style choreographed dance to Cole Porter’s ‘Delovely’. 
www.dusit.com

Ping Nakara Boutique Hotel & Spa
With just 19 rooms, this intimate, elegant boutique hotel wears a mantle of exclusivity. Built in traditional colonial style, it features white fretwork and a tranquil courtyard centred around a sparkling pool. Rooms are decorated with hand-crafted furniture, with accessories reflecting colonial traditions, while a formulated fragrance made from local herbs and plants wafts around the corridors, enlivening the senses.
www.pingnakara.com

137 Pillars House
Although I haven’t stayed in or inspected this property, it is receiving rave reviews and seems like the place to be seen in Chiang Mai. Built around a restored 1889 teak house once belonging to the East Borneo Company, it features 30 villas in a veritable botanic garden of rare northern plant species. Each spacious suite features colonial-style furniture and decor, with vintage-tiled verandahs providing a cool and tranquil place to relax and soak in the ambience.
www.snhcollection.com/137pillarshouse

The Kingdom in Words — Best Thailand Books

Regular contributor John Borthwick bookworms his way through some of the best reads about Thailand — in fact, fiction and sci-fi.


“Thailand is the Italy of Asia. Great food, beautiful women, joyously corrupt and totally dysfunctional.” So writes Jake Needham, author of taut, intelligent thrillers set in Thailand. The Big Mango and Killing Plato are perfect stuck-in-the-airport novels or an on-the-beach read. In fact, your Thailand reading can fall into three phases: On The Plane, On The Beach and Back Home.

On the Plane

Jake Needham’s plots are steeped in international politics, big money bastardry and the onion layers of Thai corruption. (The Wall Street Journal Asia notes, “Mr Needham seems to know rather more than one ought about these things.”) Add sharp dialogue and pace, and you have the classic The Big Mango and recent delights like A World of Trouble. Needham’s work is notches above the recurrent template of farang fiction about Thailand, of go-gos, goons and gumshoes.

The Ideal Man: The tragedy of Jim Thompson and the American way of war by Joshua Kurlantzick is an excellent new biography of the legendary Jim Thompson, “silk king”, spy, socialite and disappearing man. The book’s sub-title sets the scene. Exceptionally informative about post–WWII Thailand and its most glamorous foreign resident.

Jim Algie’s Bizarre Thailand: Tales of crime, sex and black magic is nowhere near as sordid as its tagline suggests. Arcane local knowledge, and funny, too. In a similar vein, but people-focused, also check out Bangkok Babylon and Thailand Confidential both by Jerry Hopkins (biographer of Jim Morrison).

Money Number One: The single man’s survival guide to Pattaya and A Fool in Paradise — the titles say all that one needs to know about “romance” in Thailand. Aussie expat Neil Hutchison’s funny-ouch! anecdotes should be mandatory in-flight reading for all arriving foreign males between the ages of puberty and senility.


On the Beach

Ex-lawyer John Burdett’s four novels featuring his eccentric Thai-farang police detective Sonchai Jitpleecheep — in a Bangkok of bizarre murders, dirty politics and curious sex — are smart, street-credible page turners and full of gloriously bent characters. Start with Bangkok 8. Burdett’s cast of good- and evil-doers is infinitely more nuanced than the penny dreadful dames and private dicks in the prolific Christopher G. Moore’s series of who-dunnits, also set in Thailand. Moore’s short story collection, Chairs is recommended, instead.

Jasmine Nights by Thai renaissance man and aristocrat S.P Somtow is rightly billed as “the classic coming-of-age tale in Thailand of the 1960s.” Set in a time-warp family enclave (“our remote little island kingdom on Sukhumvit Road”), at one point Somtow’s father tells him that the coming Vietnam War will soon change everything for them: “This place we’re in now is a piece of paradise ... But in this tiny Eden, there is no hint of the change that will sweep the world. We’re not really of this earth ... but it can’t last.” While it does, the story is sexy, magical, poignant.

Flavour-of-the-year Norsk noir novelist Jo Nesbo penned a Bangkok crime tale way back in 1998 that has only now been translated to English. Cockroaches sees his Oslo police detective/defective Harry Hole in Bangkok investigating the murder of the Norwegian ambassador who has turned up dead in a seedy motel. As they do. Go-gos, temples and opium dens(??) are the screensaver backdrops to Harry’s hunt.

Canadian poet-novelist-travel writer Karen Connelly knows Thailand and its language well. Try her adroit, youthful account of a year in the Kingdom, Touch the Dragon: A Thai journal. A much later book, Burmese Lessons: A true love story is a gritty, open-heart account of journey and loving in the Thai jungles amid exiled Burmese resistance groups.

A Woman of Bangkok by Jack Reynolds was first published in 1956. The Asian Wall Street Journal clocked it as “Among the ten finest novels written about Asia.” That’s a big call for a “young foreign man meets unscrupulous local vixen” tale. Nevertheless, it’s a plot still played out to this day, nightly. Which might explain this compelling novel’s re-emergence.


Back Home (and wishing you weren’t)

The Windup Girl by Paolo Bacigalupi is a dystopian tale of gene scammers, agri-corp wickedness and an engineered, quasi-human woman, the “windup girl” of the title. All set in a future, post-diluvean Bangkok where government departments war for keeps against each other. William Gibson meets Blade Runner meets GM-induced famine.

Private Dancer sees Irish crime writer Stephen Leather (or at least his tragic protagonist, Pete) tread the same ground, shed the same tears and not learn the same lessons that Jack Reynold’s callow hero didn’t learn 50 years earlier. By the 21st century, however, everything in the Big Mango’s bar world is harder and far more sinister. Down, deeper and down, lovestruck Pete sinks into his obsession with a ying fatale. Slow Learner could be the book’s alternative title.

In Borderlines, fine English writer Charles Nicholl headed north to the Mekong and into Burma in search of rebels, jade, opium traders, insights and an elusive friend, Katai. “... sometimes I think that it wasn't just Katai who ‘got away’, but Thailand itself, the whole strange trip. I never really got to know where I was going, never reached my destination. Perhaps the code of the road is as simple as that. You never do get there. There is just the road, and what it reveals along the way.” Sounds familiar?

Happy reading!

John Borthwick is the author of Summer in Siam, a collection of essays about travelling in Thailand.

Talking Politics

As someone who actively promotes Thailand as a tourist destination, I think it would be remiss of me not to address the current ‘elephant in the room’ - the brewing political situation in Thailand. As I write, protesters amass in the streets of Bangkok, demanding the resignation of the democratically elected government; and while the protests have been largely peaceful, reports are just in that 28 people were wounded in an explosives attack, while in another location, an unidentified gunman opened fire on the protesters.

The situation is extremely volatile, and to be frank, there is no end in sight. While I don’t pretend to have detailed knowledge of Thai politics, I do recognise that there are two extremes and very little middle ground. On the surface, it appears to be a class war; but it is so entangled in a long and complicated history, it is difficult for me to summarise.

Instead, I’ll provide links to two articles which I think explain the situation far more concisely than I possibly could.

http://www.smh.com.au/world/thailand-torn-by-ugly-power-play-20140117-30zhg.html

http://wagingnonviolence.org/feature/thailand-brink/

The bottom line for people planning a holiday to Thailand, however is ... is it safe to travel there?

The Australian government travel advisory site, smarttraveller.gov.au, warns Australian tourists to “exercise a high degree of caution” if holidaying in Thailand. They advise Australians to avoid all protests and major intersections where crowds have gathered; and to expect traffic delays and disruptions during this period.

Visitors to areas other than Bangkok are also warned to avoid demonstrations, especially in Phuket and Chiang Mai.

Note that they do NOT advise reconsidering travel plans or not travelling to Thailand.
The protests are not targeting tourists, and demonstrations tend to be localised.

While it is highly unlikely that the current situation will impact on your holiday in Thailand, please just be aware that shit happens anywhere in the world. Exercise commonsense and caution, avoid any sign of trouble, keep away from the crowds and focus on having a good time.

Go and find yourself a deserted beach, a hammock and a fresh coconut to sip on - and enjoy your vacation in the Land of Smiles!

Avoid the elephant in the room, but not the elephants!

Up/Down Chinatown

Regular contributor John Borthwick wanders Chinatown’s fascinating Yaowarat Road.

With its Blade Runner alleys, sidewalk astrologers, herbalists, goldsmiths and cheek-by-jowl eateries, teeming Yaowarat Road could be nowhere but in Chinatown. Yet not just any Chinatown. Bangkok’s, it is claimed, is South-east Asia’s largest.

In Feng Shui terms, Yaowarat Road is a “golden dragon area”, an ideal place for doing business. Five minutes on the street demonstrates the point. With Chinatown sprawling between, and beyond, Yaowarat and Charoenkrung roads, the whole place seems programmed to perpetually buy and sell, sell and buy, not to mention eat, drink and run.

Guess what part of town you're in?

The side sois off Yaowarat are microcosms of Sino-Thai enterprise, specialising in textiles, flowers, furniture or electronics, and everything else from hat-racks to rat-traps. Soi Itsara Nuphap 167, for instance, runs between Yaowarat and Charoenkrung. Enter it and you’ll think you’ve stepped into a Blade Runner set, minus the humidity and homicides. Breathe in, inch forward and by the end, several hundred metres later (and however long it takes), you’ve sampled a universe.

This being Chinatown, you’re never far from food — be it a street stall, café or restaurant — that offers respite from the intensity. On Santhipaab Road (No. 539) you’ll find excellent fried oyster omelettes at the little Nai Mon Hoi Thod eatery. When evening falls, footpath restaurants spring up along Yaowarat to provide you with a progressive feast of sea- and every other kind of food. Walk, stop and sample, then do it again; and also do the right thing by skipping the eco-uncool shark-fin and birds-nest soups.

Nai Mon Hoi Thod - delicious!

Not the easiest of finger foods...

Chinese settlers came to Thailand in numbers during the Sukhothai period (1238-1438) and their history in this Rattanakosin area dates back to even before the establishment of Bangkok in 1782. Much later, King Rama V encouraged more Chinese commercial trade and at that time ordered the construction of several main roads here, including Yaowarat in 1891. Bangkok’s Chinatown, one of the oldest overseas Chinese communities in the world, now covers about two square kilometres. Its maze of alleys, often redolent of herbs, incense, perfume and stir-fry, is also a business and commercial centre vital to the Thai economy.

Pics: John Borthwick, 2014

Yaowarat Road flows day and night like an asphalt Yangtze and its taxis, tuk-tuks, cars and pedestrians jostle with a fast-forward urgency, but not all is stress and getting. Shanghai Mansion Hotel, at 479, was built in 1892 and in its eventful life has been a Chinese opera house, stock exchange, textile trading house and department store. Pop in and check out the lobby’s chinoiserie — red sofas, lanterns, checkers and decorative screens — all paying homage to Deco-decadent 1930’s Shanghai. If you feel like staying, there are themed suites that have names like Cherry Blossom Havens.

You can reach Chinatown on foot from Hualamphong station (a 10-minute walk) or from Ratchawong Pier (via Ratchawong Road and Sampaeng Lane to Yaowarat). It is a world apart from Bangkok’s familiar Sukumvit-Silom-Khao San axis.

Thailand Hot Spots

You've done Phuket and Samui, have scaled the cliffs in Krabi and tramped the steamy streets of Bangkok. So where to next? Thailand has a wealth of beautiful islands, mountain towns and hidden treasures, just waiting to be explored. Here are three of the hottest new destinations in the Land of Smiles which I'll certainly attempt to hit in 2014...

Koh Lipe
Blinding white sand, turquoise water, a chilled atmosphere - sounds blissful, right? Koh Lipe - meaning Paper Island in the local Sea Gypsy language - is located near the Malaysian border in the extreme south of Thailand. Small and flat, you can literally walk anywhere on the island, with the main attraction being the three main beaches, which are peppered with low key resorts, bars and restaurants and of course offer great snorkelling, diving and kayaking. The island is accessed from Pak Bara pier in Thailand, or from Langkawi to the south in Malaysia. Sea Gypsies (or the Chao Lay people) still live on the island, making a living from fishing and tourism.

Nan
Touted as the "new Pai", Nan is a haven for travellers wanting to explore the northern hill tribe culture of Thailand in peace and tranquility. Located in a verdant valley not far from Luang Prabang (on the Laos side of the Mekong), it's a great place to go trekking or rafting, while the riverside town is a lovely, quiet place just to hang out and soak up the atmosphere.

Bueng Kan
Every year around October, something strange occurs along the Mekong River that creates a natural border between Laos and Thailand ... strange fireballs, ranging from sparkles to basketball-sized explosions, rise from the depth of the river, creating a natural lightshow. Locals say these are caused by a mythical snake that dwells in the river called a Naga, celebrating the time when the Buddha returned from his trip to visit his mother at the end of Buddhist lent. The centre of fireball activity is the province of Buang Kan, where the river is at its deepest. Temples in this district are dedicated to the snake god, with Wat Aa Hong Silawas said to be the best places to view fireball activity during the annual festival (also celebrated in Nong Kai province). Other attractions in the region include mountains, temples and waterfalls.

Pics: Tourism Authority of Thailand